The Libyan Sea coastline near Plakias, southern Crete

Plakias & South Rethymno

Things to do in Plakias when you're not diving

A practical, local guide to a South Crete holiday around Plakias, for freedivers, first-timers, partners who don't dive, and families. Written by the people who run Freedive Crete here on the coast.

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Is Plakias the right base for your trip?

Plakias is a small town on the south coast of Crete, in the Rethymno region, facing the Libyan Sea. It is quieter than the north-coast resorts, close to the water, and surrounded by beaches and gorges. That mix is why it works as a base whether you have come to freedive or just to swim, eat well, and slow down.

This guide is honest about what the area is and isn't. Plakias rewards people who like sea time and a slower pace over nightlife and big-resort convenience. If that sounds right, a few days here go a long way, and freediving slots into the trip rather than taking it over.

We run Freedive Crete out of Plakias, so the freediving parts come from experience. For the rest, we point you at what is genuinely worth your time and tell you to message us for the local detail rather than pretending a web page can plan your whole holiday.

Who this guide is for

Never tried freediving

You are curious but unsure it is for you. We cover what a first session actually involves and why it is beginner-friendly here.

Coming with someone who dives

You would rather swim, read, and explore. There is plenty to do while your partner is in the water, and Schinaria is set up for exactly that.

Travelling as a family

Mixed ages and mixed swimming confidence. We flag which beaches and days tend to work for groups, and when to ask us first.

Already a freediver

You want to know there is real depth and good water. There is: 30 m straight off the shore, and up to 50 m by boat.

The beaches around Plakias

The coast around Plakias has more variety than a single town beach. Here is how the main options tend to differ, so you can pick by what your group actually wants that day.

Schinaria is our main dive spot, and it is the one we can speak about with certainty.

Schinaria Beach

Our dive spot

Clear, calm water with 30 m of depth reachable straight from the shore. It is an organized beach, so partners, friends, and family can relax on the sand while divers train just offshore. This is where most of our shore sessions happen.

Plakias town beach

Easy & central

A long sandy beach right in town, within walking distance of tavernas and shops. The most convenient option if you don't want to drive, and the easiest for a casual swim.

Damnoni

Short drive

A well-known beach a short drive from Plakias, popular for a swim day. Conditions and crowds vary with the season and wind, so message us if you want the honest read for your dates.

Preveli & Kourtaliotiko Gorge

Day trip

Preveli, with its palm-lined river mouth below the Kourtaliotiko Gorge, is one of South Crete's most famous spots and a classic day out from Plakias. It rewards a bit of planning rather than a spur-of-the-moment visit; ask us before you go.

A good day if you're not diving

Plenty of visitors here never put on a wetsuit, and the area still fills a day easily. Swimming and snorkelling in clear, generally calm water, unhurried lunches, and short drives to different beaches or a gorge make an easy rhythm without anyone being dragged along.

Because Schinaria is an organized beach, it works well as a meeting point: divers train just offshore while everyone else swims, reads, and waits with a coffee rather than being stuck somewhere with nothing to do.

Planning for a mixed group? Ask us

Where freediving fits into your trip

The point of this page isn't to sell you a course. It's to show how freediving can be one part of a good holiday here rather than the whole thing.

If it would be your first time

No experience is needed. You should be comfortable in the water and able to swim about 200 m. A first session starts on land with breathing and relaxation, then moves into calm, clear water at your pace with an instructor beside you the whole time. Groups are small, capped at four people. Most beginners are surprised how quickly it clicks.

Never dived? Ask us

If you already dive

Schinaria gives you 30 m of depth straight from the shore, and boat sessions on the south coast reach up to 50 m. We teach and train through Molchanovs, SSI, and AIDA, with a coach on every dive. Come to build depth, prepare a certification, or just get quality water time on your trip.

See freediving courses

Two simple ways to plan your days

Rough templates, not rules. The idea is to mix sea time, food, and rest so no one burns out, and to keep the middle of the day out of the strongest sun.

One relaxed day

  1. 1Morning: an early swim or a freediving session at Schinaria while it is calm and cool.
  2. 2Midday: lunch and shade in town, out of the peak sun.
  3. 3Afternoon: an easy second beach, a nap, or a short drive to a nearby cove.
  4. 4Evening: a slow dinner by the water in Plakias.

Three days, more variety

Day 1 — Settle in

Get your bearings, swim at the town beach, and eat locally. A gentle start after travelling.

Day 2 — Sea day

A freediving session or a longer swim at Schinaria, with the non-divers set up on the beach nearby.

Day 3 — Explore

A day trip toward Preveli and the gorge, or a slower beach-hopping day. Ask us how to time it around the wind and crowds.

Getting to Plakias

Plakias sits over the mountains from the north coast, so plan the drive rather than assume it is quick. Rough guidance below; message us if you want specifics for your route or arrival time.

From Heraklion airport

Allow roughly two to two and a half hours by car. It is the busiest airport but the longest transfer.

From Chania airport

Roughly two hours by car, over scenic but winding roads. Often the more relaxed arrival.

From Rethymno town

Under an hour, and a common base for a night before heading down to the coast.

The last stretch is a mountain road with bends. A hire car makes the area much easier; without one, plan ahead. Ask us about transfers and the realistic no-car options for your dates.

Ask about your dates

When to visit

The season here runs May through October. Water temperatures climb from about 20°C in May to 27°C in August, with generally clear water and calm seas. June to September gives the most reliable conditions.

July and August are the peak: warmest water, but the busiest and hottest. May, June, September, and October are quieter, still warm, and often the nicer time to be here. Whenever you come, book freediving dates early for July and August.

July – August

Warmest water and longest days, but the busiest and hottest. Book early.

May, June, September, October

Quieter and cooler on land, water still comfortable. Many people's favourite window.

Where to stay

We keep a handful of apartments and studios between Souda Bay and Plakias village, from €60 a night, each with its own balcony, a kitchenette, Wi-Fi, and free parking. Staying with us also takes 10% off anything you book with Freedive Crete during your visit.

See accommodation

Quick planning questions

Is Plakias good for non-divers and families?
Yes. There is easy swimming, a walkable town beach, and short drives to other beaches and a gorge. Schinaria in particular is set up so non-divers can relax on the sand while others dive. For which spots suit weaker swimmers or small children on your dates, message us.
Do I need a car in Plakias?
It helps a lot. Plakias itself is walkable, but the best beaches and day trips are easier with a car, and the roads in are mountain roads. If you would rather not drive, ask us about transfers and the realistic options.
Can a complete beginner try freediving here?
Yes. No experience is needed; you should be comfortable in the water and able to swim about 200 m. Sessions start on land, then move into calm water with an instructor beside you, in small groups of no more than four.
When is the best time to visit?
May to October. July and August are warmest and busiest; May, June, September, and October are quieter and often nicer. Water sits around 20°C in May and up to 27°C in August.
How much depth is there for certified freedivers?
30 m straight from the shore at Schinaria, and up to 50 m by boat on the south coast, with a coach on every dive.

Planning a trip to Plakias?

Tell us your dates, your group, and whether anyone wants to dive. We will give you the honest local read, no booking flow required.

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